We actually drove up on the Friday to meet Alison's dad at Dunham Massey, a beautiful NT property with lovely gardens and a nice cafe for lunch. In the evening we had been invited to dinner at her sister's and we were able to see our nephew, Daniel, who had been away with the school on their last visit to us.
On Saturday we visited Alison's brother and talked to our eldest nephew who is off to uni in September. So we did not arrive in Keswick until late afternoon.
We knew most of the popular walks would be busy on Sunday, so we decided to try Haystacks which is fairly isolated. We found the last car parking place at Gatesgarth Farm and were soon above Buttermere.
The walk up was fairly steep but we had good views of the lake and the surrounding fells. The weather was bright, although quite cloudy, and it was very windy at the top.
The route back visited Innominate Tarn (where Alfred Wainwright's ashes were scattered), Backbeck Tarn before a rough decent to Scarth Gap followed by a steady downhill path winding round the fell on the other the other side of Black Beck.
Wainwright describes Haystacks "Here is a rugged height, little in stature and small in extent, encircled by much loftier fells, some of international reknown, yet standing quite unabashed by their greater presence in the landscape and not acknowledging inferiority to any of them."
The next day promised good weather, so we plunged for Skiddaw, the fourth highest fell in the Lakes, and therefore England. The route up is a wide path, an easy but unrelenting climb to the top. But the views over Derwent Water were magnificent, especially as it was quite bright with little wind.
When we reached the summit, the wind picked up so it became quite cold. But we could see over Bassenthwaite Lake to the Solway Firth and Scotland in the distance.
We took the advice of Colin Shelbourne in his book and returned across Sale How. There is no footpath on the map, but as he says, you cannot miss the route which arrives at Skiddaw House and follows the Cumbrian Way in a long but enjoyable route around Lonscale Fell. And we had time for tea at Brysons on our return to Keswick.
On Tuesday we needed a rest day, and as showers were forecast, we drove to one of our favourite places in the south. Parking at Rydal we strolled along Loughrigg Terrace above Rydal Water and then Grassmere lake. Even from a fairly low height you can see (left to right in the following photo) Crinkle Crags, Bow Fell and the Langdale Pikes.
The weather had stayed fine, so we decided to make the climb to the top of Loughrigg Fell. Again windy at the top, but well worth the effort.
The first heavy shower fell just after we arrived back at the car. In the afternoon, we went into Grassmere and enjoyed a mooch around as we always do. We found a wonderful new cafe called Heidi's for tea and cake, and finally picked up some gingerbread at Sarah Nelson's.
Wednesday forecast heavy rain ,and after the walk yesterday (and Alison's run in the morning) we started a proper rest day with brunch at Booths. Into Keswick for a walk round the shops with a stop for coffee, we ended with a walk to the lake where the first heavy shower of the day started.
The weather on Thursday was still showery and cool, so we picked one from Bob Allen's "Lower Lakeland Fells" next to Ullswater. This took us to Aira Beck and before Dockray we headed up Gowbarrow Fell. Again windy and cold on the top, but good views all round.
The path down was not obvious, but we did find our way and the route around Green Hill, high above Ullswater, was excellent. Most of the time it was cloudy, but when the sun came out, it was quite spectacular. And we could see the path that follows the opposite side of the lake and which we had walked on previous visits. Finally Glenridding, at the end of Ullswater came into view with the Hevellyn range in the distance.
When we arrived back downhill, it was to see the waterfalls at Aira Force. A light shower fell on the walk back to the car, only for the heavens to open when we had made it inside.
Route for Skiddaw
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