When we were looking for somewhere to stop on the way to Hereford on Bank Holiday Monday, it was Alison who spotted that Sudeley Castle was not too far off our route. It had actually been on my list of places to visit as it features in my film script "The Seymours". (https://sites.google.com/site/theseymoursfilmscript)
Our final approach to Sudeley was down a single track road for seven miles, but on arrival we found a beautifully maintained Tudor mansion surrounded by Cotswold Hills. A wonderful situation. The main building that contains many rooms of exhibits is complemented by the partially restored ruins.
So after tea and cake in the cafe, we explored the exhibitions inside and watched a few short videos about it's history. The most interesting for me was David Starkey's talk about Katherine Parr, the Dowager Queen of Henry V111 who, within a year of his death, married the ambitious and reckless Thomas Seymour, brother of Edward Seymour who was Lord Protector of the young king Edward V1. Thomas was made Baron of Sudeley and given the estate. Here Katherine died shortly after giving birth to their Daughter.
Thomas, highly jealous of his brother, tried to abduct the young king but failed. His ever increasing recklessness led to his arrest, his brother reluctantly signing his death warrant. All the above is in the film script, so I was thrilled to visit the church of St Mary in the grounds of the castle.
We had been lucky with the weather, warm with light cloud and some sun in the early afternoon.
It was late in the afternoon that we left and drove to the outskirts of Hereford where we found our hotel. The Brandon Lodge was exactly what we wanted. The room was spacious, quiet and cool despite the warm day. We could not have picked better. We had booked a table at Simply Thai Kitchen in the city and despite the unpromising surroundings and only a few tables, the meal was very good.
Tuesday was my big day. Hay Festival turned out to be so much better than I could have imagined. First of all there was no queuing through the village or for the Macmillan Car Park that is right next to the complex.
I had thought from the above map I had been sent , that there were tents scattered about a field. So I did not expect the enclosed and roofed village that we encountered. The following photo gives some idea of the class of what is a temporary construction.
The network of access ways are all boarded and covered in artificial grass with the various stages and outlets spaced around the perimeter. Both the talks for which I had booked were in the obscurely named Tata Tent. More like an upmarket music venue with 1700 seats, firstly on the level and then raked at the rear. A large crocodile queuing area outside, inside modern lighting and sound, with three screens.
I went to hear Maggie O'Farrell in the morning (talking to Cathy Renzenbrink) about her memoir "I Am, I Am, I Am". In the afternoon it was Rose Tremain talking to Peter Florence, about her memoir "Rosie". I had only considered a visit to Hay as two of my favourite novelists were appearing on the same day. They were both terrific. Later, I queued to have their books signed and have a quick conversation.
In between, apart from visiting lots of stands and individual traders, we found the enormous Festival Food Hall .
Around the perimeter of the hall are the various food outlets, where there is a huge selection on offer. We picked Meat and Greek where the souvlaki was excellent. See www.meatandgreek.co.uk/.
Another mostly cloudy day but pleasantly warm day, perfect for venue. In the evening we found a table at Wildwood, a chain of restaurants we didn't know. I had a very nice pizza and Alison a wild boar burger which she also enjoyed.
Wednesday was the reason why Alison actually came with me on this trip. A visit to Hereford Castle to see the Hereford Mappa Mundi.
The cathedral itself is very impressive. One of the best features inside is the North Transept and Shrine of St Thomas of Hereford.
The stone and marble tomb is one of the best preserved medieval shrines in England.
The pillars of the Nave of the cathedral are Norman.
Both of us loved the modern stained glass window by Tom Denny in the Audley Chapel.
We passed through the cafe on our way to the Mappa Mundi and Chained Library Exhibition, the highlight of our visit. There is, first of all, an exhibition space where there is a reproduction of the map translated from the Latin into English and a video explaining the background. You then enter a smaller room which houses the original medieval map. This is darker but with discreet lighting and temperature and humidity control.
The attendants gave us a fascinating portrait of how it came to Hereford and what is on the map. I was amazed at the inclusion of so many religious, historical and natural world events. Such as Vesuvius erupting. Opposite the map is the oak board on which it was found. I liked one of the options of it's use as the original background to the stretched calf skin. The whole display is beautifully set out.
We then proceeded to the Chained Library where another attendant explained to us how the locks worked and how the chains were fixed. She answered all our questions and showed us various examples she had hidden in a drawer.
It had just stopped raining as we left, so we were lucky to have been inside. Everything on this short break had been perfect.
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