When I found that two of my favourite authors were appearing at the Cheltenham Literary Festival, one on the Friday night (Elizabeth Strout) and the other on the Saturday morning (Ian McEwan) I had to go. I then found out that there was a large festival site situated at Montpelier Gardens. These were originally laid out in the early part of the nineteenth century to complement the Pump Room for the new Spa. For the next two weeks they are home to the Festival complex.
I arrived at the Travelodge on a late Friday afternoon and set out for town centre at dusk ready for the first event at 8.30pm. Not at the Festival site but at the Town Hall. But first I had to find somewhere to park. All the advice was that Cheltenham was a nightmare for parking and park and ride was to be preferred. But I had my plans about where the car parks were situated and took a risk. What happened next was totally opposite to the advice. As my hotel was on the other side of town, my first idea was to turn left at The Lansdown and take it from there. But I found myself on the old regency Lansdown Cescent where there were was stacks of empty spaces with meter parking that was never advertised. These cost £0.97 on Friday and £1.55 on Saturday. They must be a well kept secret, or no-one drives in from this side of town.
The top photo shows how close this is to Montpelier Gardens, only ten minutes walk away.
So it was dusk as I arrived at the Festival site. My first plan was to find somewhere to eat. The stalls outside did not look inviting.
However, inside the Feast Cafe there was a good choice.
I went for the Oriental Noodles with sweet and sour sauce. I have to say it was delicious and just what I wanted. After exploring the other venues (different to the Hay Festival that was all under one roof) I was off to the Town Hall. This part of Cheltenham is very impressive. Lots of high class restaurants, all very busy, including Brasserie Blanc.
Then a big disappointment when arriving at the Town Hall (below) I found that Elizabeth Strout had cancelled after apparently having a bad fall. She actually appeared in London two days before so I guess that was right. So back to the Travelodge early to watch the end of England Lionesses beat the USA at a full Wembley Stadium.
Saturday morning was bright, cold and sunny. I was at Montpelier Gardens early for to explore in daylight. Then to The Times and Sunday Times Forum for Ian McEwan. The biggest of the temporary venues that looked exactly the same as where I saw Maggie O'Farrell and Rose Tremain at Hay.
The venue was packed for this popular author and he answered questions about his new mammoth tome Lessons. The story of one man's life that, he told us, that was only a quarter based on himself. I was impressed that McEwan is now seventy four and able to express himself so clearly.
The proceedings were, however, interrupted by a medical emergency that put the interview back fifteen minutes. One question was about what writer originally inspired McEwan to write and the answer was Franz Kafka. Heard the name but never read anything. I now know that McEwan's latest very short novella in paperback ,The Cockroach, was a tribute to Kafka's Metamorphosis. I will try them back to back.
On leaving the venue I encountered a huge queue of mainly children waiting to go in The Garden Theatre, finding later is was about Harry Potter. But no JK. Another queue to get in Waterstones so I headed back to the car and home. I was impressed by Cheltenham, although petrol was 10p a litre more expensive than at home. And I had no idea that GCHQ was in a suburb as I passed it on the way in. Might be worth another visit sometime.
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