A Week in the Lake District - 2017

Our third successive year at Coachman's Cottage in Grasmere and our eighteenth visit to the Lake District. Let me say first of all that we have never had such sunny weather on any of our previous holidays there. We were able to sit outside at the end of all the first six days. Thursday was the first day I wore a jumper.

FRIDAY

We traveled up the day before and stayed in the guest suite of  Alison's father's home near Stockport. We had lunch at The Plaza Cafe that is situated in the restored theatre/cinema.

In the evening we were invited to dinner at Alison's sisters and caught up with niece Emily.

SATURDAY

Alison had chosen the National Trust Lyme Park for our parkrun, mainly because we were meeting her brother John there. A lovely morning for a run but it was the hilliest course you could imagine. When you were not running up steep hills, there were precipitous descents to endure. It was awful. I finished in a time of 34 minutes 20 seconds, well behind Alison. No wonder there were not many runners. But what was nice was the tea and cake with John in the Timber Yard Cafe afterwards. And talking to the ladies from Redditch.

We arrived in Grasmere in warm sunshine and sat outside the cottage with Anne and Chas who arrived shortly after we did.

They were staying with us until Wednesday. After unpacking, we had time for a walk around Grasmere and drinks outside Tweedies Bar with their famous beer triples.

SUNDAY

The weather was again warm and sunny and we walked from the cottage past Grasmere and took the high level path to reach Rydal Water before heading up Loughrigg Fell. A superb climb on a glorious day.

At the top we could see the path that went down towards Ambleside, and although we missed the most direct of the two routes down, we did reach the valley and the River Rothay. The path along the river took us to Rydal Water where the lake had never looked so blue.

A six hour walk in the sun, we were glade of the shade on the last stretch.

MONDAY

The second morning we had breakfast outside. Quite surreal. We drove to Glenridding to take the steamer down Ullswater for the walk back as we had done in the past.

We managed to get the last parking spot in the car park and only had a short wait for the boat, again trying to keep out of the sun! The steamer takes half an hour to Howtown where we disembarked. The walk back is only 7 miles but it is very undulating and, at times, rocky underfoot. But great views of the lake.

So it took us four hours, but that was with a few stops for lunch and refreshments, including the isolated Lowther Barn Cafe.

In the end I was pretty tired in the 24 degree temperature. In the evening we drove to Chapel Stile for dinner, but Wainwright's was extremely crowded so it was back to Ambleside. Our favourite restaurant Dodds (who do not take bookings) found us a table. Back at the cottage, we sat outside for coffee at 10pm!

TUESDAY

We were all pretty tired after the energetic last two days so we plumped for something less strenuous. On another sunny day, (after breakfast outside again) Anne and Chas wanted to walk to nearby National Trust property at Allan Bank, Alison decided to walk up to Easedale Tarn and I wanted to go to Holehird Gardens. I have a separate post for my visit to these superb gardens.

When we all had arrived back, we had drinks outside. For dinner, we wanted to try the menu at Tweedies Bar. There was a wait for a table (which we should have booked). The food was ordinary but there is a great selection of beers. Another sunny day around 24 degrees.

WEDNESDAY

The day started with rain but it soon dried up. Anne and Chas were leaving so it was late morning when Alison and I went for our run down the Langdale Valley from Elterwater. Five miles later it had become very warm again. A late lunch outside the cottage, and the sun was out again as we took the (very) short walk up to Allan Bank.

Anne and Chas had recommended the Woodland Trail for a rocky climb up to a good viewpoint.

Later there are views to our cottage and the main house of Ryelands.

We even saw red squirrels, although they are hard to find in the photos.

Back at the cottage, we sat outside for tea and cake. Another warm and sunny afternoon.

THURSDAY

We had always saved Thursday for our big walk. Last year it was High Street and this year Bowfell. It was a cloudy start to the day, but the forecast was for it to clear in the middle of the day. We drove to the National Trust car park at Dungeon Ghyll and walked along Mickledon at the end of the Langdale Valley. We tried a route up to Hell Ghyll but came across what looked like a dangerously wet rock, crossing a stream. Not knowing the path, we headed back to the bottom and instead climbed up The Band. It became cloudier and mistier the higher we climbed.

The top of Bowfell was in the cloud, and people we met told us they were unable to see anything in the distance. We had reached three tarns at a height of about 675 meters and after starting and stopping, with the dramatic mist rolling down the fellside, we decided to head on back downhill. It was not long after that the sun came out at lower levels and we had great views of the Langdale Pikes to the left.

And Crinkle Crags to the right.

Although Bowfell was still in cloud. So being a little lower was fine as the sun made it a lovely afternoon for the descent. a six hour walk was enough for me.

And tea outside again on our return. We tried Dodds again for dinner in Ambleside, but the wait for a table was far too long. That turned out fine as the wonderful Thai restaurant Doi Inaton had a table upstairs. The food was great as usual.

FRIDAY

Back to normal Lake District weather with heavy rain in the early morning. We decided to do some of the packing as we were leaving early the next day. It was still light rain on the way to Keswick but this had stopped when we arrived. The only photo of the day were the new trail shoes Alison bought at the New Balance outlet shop she had sourced before the holiday. I wondered why Keswick was the back up day.

We had a very filling lunch at Brysons. Fortunately it was dry as we wandered around the town. Back at the cottage we watched some of the tennis from Queens Club and waited for a shower to pass for a late walk around Grasmere and shopping for gingerbread and a couple of things at the Herdy shop.

Friday was a lot cooler at 17 degrees, but it was nice to have another quiet day.

SATURDAY

An early start to pack the car and get to Fell Foot Park for parkrun. A nice morning for a run, but too cool to sit outside the NT cafe for tea and a sausage sandwich. On previous occasions we have walked around the lake, but instead we headed for home for an untroubled drive of exactly four hours. We had missed the days of 30 degree plus temperatures in the south, so our holiday was perfectly timed. And back to fresher weather.