The plane touched down at 4.15pm Rome time, and that was where our troubles began. We were directed to the wrong baggage collection, having to leave arrivals and air side, a long walk to Terminal 3 arrivals, back air side through the "staff only" gate to find our case. But we were not alone! We found the railway station and were helped how to pay for a ticket on the Leonardo da Vinci non stop express to the main city centre station in Rome. From there we had decided to use the Metro. A mistake with carrying a case and bags! Lots of steps and a long way from the station. The Metro is very grubby, not at all pleasant. And it was raining when we arrived at our destination and an over ten minute walk to the hotel that was not easy to find in the wet. But we got there at 7pm, over nine hours since we left home! But the hotel was very nice thank goodness. We were hungry and tired, so we tried the first pizzeria we found. Out of the tourist centre, it was full of locals. And the pasta and bread was good and very welcome. And to top it all, England win the ICC 20/20 final against Australia. We slept very well for a first night.
DAY ONE - Piazzas and Churches - A Walking Tour
The weather forecast in the paper was for rain. But it was dry when we left the hotel, so we decided to make the best of the day with a walking tour. We headed for Piazza Navona, stopping to take photos of St Peter's from the bridge, Ponte Umberto 1. The sun broke through the cloud as we arrived at this beautiful square.
We went in the big church, Sant' Agnese in Agone, and it was fabulous. It also appears in the book and film Angels and Demons as does the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or Fountain of the Four Rivers that is outside the church in the picture below.
We followed the route of one of the walks in our brilliant guidebook from Eyewitness Travel, and came across the deserted courtyard of Sant' Ivo alla Sapienza. Another lovely church with a superb plain but startling interior with a magnificent lantern. It was no surprise that there were a number of people sketching inside. 
Another couple of beautiful piazzas and we found ourselves at the back of an ancient round building. It had to be the Pantheon. Piazza della Rotunda outside the front entrance was very busy, but entry is free and we were soon inside. Although packed with tourists, it did not matter as it was the huge interior that caught the eye. I found it completely awesome and the most moving of all the places we saw in Rome.
The rain that was forecast was actually one heavy shower that fell while we were inside the Pantheon. The sun had come out when we left. So we just continued to explore. In Piazza di Sant' Ignazio di Loyola stands another fine church of the same name. And not far away is the Temple of Hadrian. Backtracking, we found Palazzo Venezia in Piazza Venezia. Not to go in this museum, but to photograph this fine building. It did once become the headquarters for Mussolini and he addressed crowds from the balcony. Not far is Gesu, a famous Jesuit church, but it was closed. In the distance we saw what looked like some old ruins, so off down Corso Vittorio Emanuele 11 and we found ourselves at Area Sacra dell' Argentina. Alison was in heaven seeing the remains of four temples that take up a whole block. The earliest dates from the 3rd century.
Time for a quick lunch. A large breakfast at the hotel meant we didn't need much and we were soon heading for our next place, Fontana di Trevi. And whilst the piazzas and churches were quiet for a Sunday morning, the square in front of the fountain was packed. It was still impressive. Nearby was Quirinal Hill and we made our way up to Palazzo del Quirinale, which used to be the old papal palace and is now the home of the President. The square was closed with lots of people waiting at the perimeter. Alison found that they were waiting for the changing of the guard. We only had to wait fifteen minutes and out came the navy.
We made our way to the other side of the piazza, passing the Quirinal fountain and obelisk, peered through the throng to see something of the guard change on the square, and headed down the quiet Via del Quirinale. At Barberini we could have taken the Metro as I was pretty tired by this time, but we decided to walk back. We found the delightful Piazza della Trinita dei Monti at the top of the Spanish Steps and the church of the same name. We found a low stone wall to sit on and lashed out for a two Euro bottle of water. Refreshed, we started down the packed steps to look back to the church above.
We walked down Via Condotti which is full of all the smart shops including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Valentino, Versace and Fendi. We were soon back at the river and over Ponte Cavour to the hotel. Tired but thrilled with our exploration. I could have included so many more photos from our day. After a rest we made our way to Zio Ciro for a huge pizza.DAY TWO - The Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill
It was sunny as we walked up to the Metro station at Lepanto. We had to change at Termini to take a second train to Colosseo. The queue for the Colosseum was just over 20 minutes and we were inside by just after 11am. Whilst it cost 12 Euros for Alison (including entry to the Forum), it was free for me and all Europeans 65 and over. Fortunately Alison had said we should take my passport just in case.
It was still sunny as we took our time to view the arena from various spots.
Alison loved the age the building, even the old bits of stone that were scattered about. What is that all about?
Whilst we were at the higher level it started to rain so we took the opportunity to explore the exhibition, along with many others. By the time we left the sun was back out. It was time to make our way to the Roman Forum (via a slight detour as we got slightly lost - not the only ones). The Forum was the centre of political, commercial and judicial life in ancient Rome. It was well worth the visit. Again Alison was very impressed.
I particularly like the Rostri (or rostrum) where speeches were delivered, and famous for the setting of "Friends, Romans, Countrymen".
Another short shower on our way round and then it was a short climb up the hill to Palatine. We had to shelter from a heavier and prolonged shower at 3.30 before it eased slightly. Still in light rain we had a quick tour, taking in only a disappointingly very short stop at the Stadium. As the rain became heavier again we made a fast exit to make the Metro cold and wet.
Alison loved the age the building, even the old bits of stone that were scattered about. What is that all about? 
Whilst we were at the higher level it started to rain so we took the opportunity to explore the exhibition, along with many others. By the time we left the sun was back out. It was time to make our way to the Roman Forum (via a slight detour as we got slightly lost - not the only ones). The Forum was the centre of political, commercial and judicial life in ancient Rome. It was well worth the visit. Again Alison was very impressed.
I particularly like the Rostri (or rostrum) where speeches were delivered, and famous for the setting of "Friends, Romans, Countrymen".
Another short shower on our way round and then it was a short climb up the hill to Palatine. We had to shelter from a heavier and prolonged shower at 3.30 before it eased slightly. Still in light rain we had a quick tour, taking in only a disappointingly very short stop at the Stadium. As the rain became heavier again we made a fast exit to make the Metro cold and wet.On the walk back from the Metro to the hotel, we stopped at a typical tiny cafe close to our destination called Bar Latteria Vinci. The coffee was very welcome, tasty and cheap (.70 Euro). In the evening sunshine, we walked over the bridge to Piazza Navona and found a pizzeria that seemed less expensive than some others surrounding the square. We had a great table at the front, under a heater, and watched darkness fall on the piazza. Dinner for two was 45 Euros including a starter, drinks and tip. Not bad for the location.
DAY THREE - Janiculum Hill, Trastevere and Castel Sant' Angelo
After Alison's Roman ruins day, I had wanted to follow the guide book's recommendation of climbing Janiculum Hill. This meant catching a bus. We found a shop selling bus tickets where "TICKET ATAC" is under the main "T" sign outside. We found out that it needed to be stamped, and were kindly told at the bus stop that the machine was inside the bus.
We got off at Ponte Sisto, the next stop after Farnesina. As we made our way through the streets of Trastevere to find Via Garibaldi, and a climb up a twisting road without a pavement, Alison did wonder where I had brought her after all the wonderful sights of central Rome. And I have to admit, so did I. But we soon arrived at the beautiful San Pietro in Montorio and our first glimpses of Rome below.
Further up the hill we found the impressive Fontana dell' Acqua Paola, then the arch of Porta San Pancranzio before finally reaching the open spaces of Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi and his monument. A rare public toilet was spotless, free and had a resident cleaner. We shared a bottle of water sitting on the wall overlooking a distant view of Rome. However the view from the other side of the square was worth the trip. Looking towards the much nearer St Peters and green hillsides was the highlight of a morning that had been very sunny throughout.
The walk back to Trastevere was not so long, finding a nice shortcut. The guide book says this is one of the most picturesque old quarters of the city. It was OK, but not in the same league as what we saw on our first day. I liked Piazza di Sant' Egidio and it's church, but the best was yet to come. Santa Maria in Trastevere is a beautiful old church that we studied from sitting on the steps of the fountain in a gorgeous piazza.
It was welcomely cooler in the church. On our way out we decided to stop for a drink at one of the cafes in the square. A perfect spot as you can see.
The best bit for me was the 360 degree view from the roof terrace in the late afternoon sunshine. We stayed there for ages looking at where we had been in the morning, and the previous two days. The picture below has the pantheon on the left, and the dark building to the left of the dazzling white monument is the Colosseum.
Again we had coffee at the same bar close to the hotel. As it was our wedding anniversary, we could think of no better place to eat than the same pizzeria as the previous evening. Two complimentary glasses of something fizzy meant I had to drink them both. Cafe Bernini is in the corner of Piazza Navona and is highly recommended. Our risotto and pasta were very nice, especially on a warm evening sitting outside.
DAY FOUR - St Peter's Square and the Vatican Museums
We set the alarm for 7.30am on our last day as we needed to make the best use of the morning, knowing we had to be back at the hotel by 1.30pm. We knew we only had a short walk to St Peter's Square. It was some time after ten that we arrived, and were interested to see people in rows of seats in front of the main entrance where a dias had been erected. Our guide book revealed that the Pope gives a public audience on Wednesday mornings and today this was outside. The absence of a queue for entry to St Peters meant that it was probably closed to visitors.
The galleries were commissioned in 1503 and are quite unlike anything I have seen before. Gallery after gallery have the most amazing ceilings. There is so much to see on the way round.
If there was one thing that attracted me to the Vatican Museums, it was the opportunity to see the Sistine Chapel. I was not disappointed. There was no wait to get in, but as we moved through the entrance, we found a great hall absolutely packed with tourists. But somehow, like the Pantheon, it did not seem to matter. What did matter was that you still had perfect views of the frescoes on the walls and ceiling.
As it is place of worship, visitors are supposed to be quiet. But how can a large, packed chapel be so? Only when an attendant barks out orders for silence, and that only last a short while before another shout for quiet. It seesm to me that is is more disturbing than a low background hubub.
It was time for our journey home. We decided this time to have a car, arranged by the hotel (not just a taxi but a very smart Merc) back to the airport. At 50 Euro ( against the 30 Euro by train and Metro) it was brilliant value for money. Our departure was on time and we were having supper at home at 9pm. It was hard to think that at one we were leaving St Peters.
MY HIGHLIGHTS
FOR NEXT TIME
The walk back to Trastevere was not so long, finding a nice shortcut. The guide book says this is one of the most picturesque old quarters of the city. It was OK, but not in the same league as what we saw on our first day. I liked Piazza di Sant' Egidio and it's church, but the best was yet to come. Santa Maria in Trastevere is a beautiful old church that we studied from sitting on the steps of the fountain in a gorgeous piazza.
It was welcomely cooler in the church. On our way out we decided to stop for a drink at one of the cafes in the square. A perfect spot as you can see.
We made our way through the streets to the river and a bus back. We just missed our 280 and had to wait another 25 minutes for the next one. But we still had time to visit Castel Sant' Angelo, so we got off the bus before the bridge and walked over Ponte Sant' Angelo where we had great views approaching the old castle. Again my entry was free. Starting life in AD 139, this ancient building was more Alison's cup of tea. But it did have a certain historic atmosphere.
The best bit for me was the 360 degree view from the roof terrace in the late afternoon sunshine. We stayed there for ages looking at where we had been in the morning, and the previous two days. The picture below has the pantheon on the left, and the dark building to the left of the dazzling white monument is the Colosseum.
Again we had coffee at the same bar close to the hotel. As it was our wedding anniversary, we could think of no better place to eat than the same pizzeria as the previous evening. Two complimentary glasses of something fizzy meant I had to drink them both. Cafe Bernini is in the corner of Piazza Navona and is highly recommended. Our risotto and pasta were very nice, especially on a warm evening sitting outside.
DAY FOUR - St Peter's Square and the Vatican Museums
We set the alarm for 7.30am on our last day as we needed to make the best use of the morning, knowing we had to be back at the hotel by 1.30pm. We knew we only had a short walk to St Peter's Square. It was some time after ten that we arrived, and were interested to see people in rows of seats in front of the main entrance where a dias had been erected. Our guide book revealed that the Pope gives a public audience on Wednesday mornings and today this was outside. The absence of a queue for entry to St Peters meant that it was probably closed to visitors.
I had not been that keen on visiting the Vatican Museums, but it seemed like the best idea in the circumstances. A walk around part of the Vatican walls took us to the museums' entrance, with hardly any queue. It seemed we had struck lucky, as most people would be in St Peter's Square.
It turned out that the visit was far more impressive than I could have imagined. The buildings themselves are old papal palaces. The courtyards are excellent.
It turned out that the visit was far more impressive than I could have imagined. The buildings themselves are old papal palaces. The courtyards are excellent.
The galleries were commissioned in 1503 and are quite unlike anything I have seen before. Gallery after gallery have the most amazing ceilings. There is so much to see on the way round.
If there was one thing that attracted me to the Vatican Museums, it was the opportunity to see the Sistine Chapel. I was not disappointed. There was no wait to get in, but as we moved through the entrance, we found a great hall absolutely packed with tourists. But somehow, like the Pantheon, it did not seem to matter. What did matter was that you still had perfect views of the frescoes on the walls and ceiling.
We were fortunate to find a rare seat on the plinths that run round the edge. We were able to gaze in wonder at Michaelangelo's "The Last Judgement" and his awesome majestic ceiling. They are so detailed, it takes some time to actually see what they are all about. We took our time to do just that.
As it is place of worship, visitors are supposed to be quiet. But how can a large, packed chapel be so? Only when an attendant barks out orders for silence, and that only last a short while before another shout for quiet. It seesm to me that is is more disturbing than a low background hubub.
Over two hours in the Vatican Museums, and we still had time to revisit St Peter's Square. The queue for the museums was massive as we left. Back to St Peters and a walk round. I cannot think of a bigger, more wonderful square in the world. Lots of people but not too many. A band played and someone kindly took our photo. A great way to finish our holiday.
It was time for our journey home. We decided this time to have a car, arranged by the hotel (not just a taxi but a very smart Merc) back to the airport. At 50 Euro ( against the 30 Euro by train and Metro) it was brilliant value for money. Our departure was on time and we were having supper at home at 9pm. It was hard to think that at one we were leaving St Peters.
HOTEL VISCONTI
We were extremely pleased with our choice of hotel. We chose it from Tripadvisor comments about being quiet as slightly away from the tourist area. But still only a short ten minute walk to the river and five more minutes over the bridge to Piazza Navona. A smart modern, Marriot type building, three efficient lifts to our sixth floor room. It overlooked a busy side street, but the cars were slow and quiet. Our room was perfect, nights were quiet, the bed surprisingly comfortably firm. So a great night's sleep apart from a Sunday night fire alarm. Temperature of the room was controllable so just right. The staff were helpful, they provided the best street map of Rome, the public areas were very nice. The breakfast cafe was also smart and spacious. The food was hugely varied with hot bacon, frankfurters and scambled egg. Great coffee.
MY HIGHLIGHTS
Exploring piazzas, churches and historic sights in Central Rome on the first day.
Piazza Navona and Berninis.
The Pantheon.
Sant' Ivo alla Sapienza.
Free entry to the Closseum and Castelo Sant' Angelo.
The Rostri.
Palatine Hill, never mind the rain.
The view of St Peters from Piazzale Guiseppe Garibaldi.
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.
The views from Castel Sant' Angelo.
The Sistine Chapel.
St Peter's Square.
Hotel Visconti.
Bar Latteria Vinci.
ALISON'S HIGHLIGHTS
Some of the above.
Area Sacra.
The Colosseum.
The Roman Forum.
Castel Sant' Angelo.
Old stones with writing.
In fact anything ancient.
The hotel breakfasts.
FOR NEXT TIME
Piazza del Popolo
Santa Maria della Vittorio
The Vatican Necropolis
A revisit to Palatine, and Forum for Trajan's Markets.
The Capitol area including Piazza del Campidoglio and Palazzo Senatorio.
San Giovanni in Laterano.
For Alison, the Baths of Diocletian, the Baths of Trajan and the Baths of Caracalla. What is it about old Roman baths?
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