Gobe Theatre, Bankside and Troilus and Cressida

It was months ago that I bought my ticket for a performance of Troilus and Cressida at the Globe Theatre. For me, a first time for that theatre and play. So when it came to the day, it seemed sensible to combine the trip into London with some sightseeing. I had seen a report in the Times that one good place to go was the Clonk Prison Museum, and as this was close to the Globe, it became my first port of call. But what a waste of time and £3.50. I have to say it was complete rubbish.
As I was out within twenty minutes, I was stuck as what to do next. However, I saw a sign for Southwark Cathedral and I was off. I passed the remains of the Palace of Winchester dating from the twelfth century.

Then past a replica of the Golden Hind in a dry dock, and onto Southwark Cathedral. Dating from the thirteenth century, it has only been a Cathedral since 1905. The Nave has been sympathetically restored and rebuilt for the fourth time in the 1890's to match the impressive choir at the back of the building dated 1215 to 1260. The trials of several protestant martyrs took place here during the reign of Mary in 1553 to 1558.

The last tour of the Globe was not until 5pm, so had time for a coffee and a muffin in Cafe Nero listening to their selection of modern jazz vocalists. The Globe tour starts with looking round their superb exhibition. Then a guide took us into the theatre and delivered an interesting history of the building. The sets were being changed from rehearsals of a new play to the evening performance of Troilus and Cressida.

I had an hour to kill before the play, so I wandered off away from the river and explored Bankside. I passed the Hop Exchange on Southwark Street, which is now a hospitality and party venue, and found myself in Borough. At the approach to London Bridge, there was the back of the Cathedral so I knew this would lead me back to the Thames Path. Through a deserted Borough Market and back to The Globe for a leisurely drink and a read of the programme before the play started.

I took my seat at the back of the middle tier, and knowing my seat would have a hard back, invested in a cushion and a slatted back, wisely as it turned out.

I'm not totally surprised that this play is rarely performed. It seems in the main a satire on war. The love story of the title characters seems somewhat peripheral and feels like it could have been inserted from another play. The satire has been translated in this production to produce some comical figures. Ajax is a brainless thug, Achilles a slimy peacock and Helen a mischievous tart. Mathew Kelly brings a refreshing modern day slant to his matchmaking Pandarus, as does the flighty Laura Pyper as Cressida. When they are on stage, the dialogue flows, unlike the ramblings of the greek generals.

After the play I headed for Euston and the train home, pausing to photograph a floodlit St Pauls from the Millenium Bridge.