Thursday 2 July 2015

A Week in the Lake District

Although we were not due to start our week in the Lakes until the Saturday, we travelled up on the Friday to stay in the guest suite of Arlington House in Stockport where Alison's father Ray has an apartment. We stopped first at the NT property at Dunham Massey where we arrived around 1pm. Just the right time to have lunch in the brand new cafe. Our walk around the deer park and gardens was very nice, except that it was very chilly and we were glad of our coats. On the way to Stockport we shopped for a buffet tea that we had with Ray and Alison's brother John.

We were up early in the morning to make the Marple Parkrun, my first time there. Alison ran with her sister Anne and her friend Lucy. The course was very pretty but undulating, part through woods and down to the river. Unexpectedly we were invited to Anne's for a brunch that her husband Chas put together. The bacon sandwiches were very welcome. We left around 12.30 for the Lake District, encountering heavy rain on the way to and up the M6. But it brightened as we turned off for Kendal.

A food shop at Booths in Windermere and then on to Coachman's Cottage in Grasmere. Lyn gave us a tour and after unpacking, it was lovely to sit outside in the late afternoon sun. We watched the swallows swoop into the bin store where they had a nest. They were a lovely feature of our week.

On Sunday morning, I walked into Grasmere and to buy a Sunday paper. Anne and Chas were arriving early afternoon so we had time to run to the Lake, round the shore and back. About 4 miles with some quite steep bits. After a late lunch with our visitors, we all started up the path closest to the cottage that was signposted to Silver How. It winded it's way around the NT property of Allan Bank (maybe to be visited another year) and up the hillside with great views over Grasmere and the surrounding fells.


We went up fairly high on a very attractive route up.


We were trying to find the crossing path to Silver How but could not find it. We were nearly at the top of Lang Howe (414m) and returned on the same path, finding later that we needed to have gone over the top to find the Silver How path, but we had no time on a late afternoon.



Arriving back in Grasmere, we went for drinks in Tweedies Bar, just on the opposite side of the road to our cottage. Chas and I partook of the triple tasting beers.


We travelled to Ambleside for a superb dinner at Dodds. It was called Mr Dodds one of the first times we went there in 2001.

Monday promised to be a fairly dry day, so we planned our major walk to Easedale Tarn, Sargent Mann and High Raise, a walk Alison and I had made three times before. We used the Wainwright Guide for both our ascent to Sargent Mann (734m) and the return from the nearby High Raise (762m) through Far Easedale.


We love the route up to Easedale Tarn and the rest we have when we get there.


Then up past Codale Tarn and some scrambling up the stony gulley. It is worth it for the views when you reach the top. We couild see Windermere, Coniston, Elterwater and a long way to the South East.

 

It was a good spot to have lunch, even though the weather was worsening as it tends to do on the peaks. We made it to Sargent Mann  with fabulous views to the Scafell Range and Morecombe Bay in the distance.


It began to rain on our way to High Raise so we didn't stop on what Wainwright describes as just "rounded, grassy slopes" but a "fine panoroma" on what could be considered as "the most centrally situated fell" in the lake District. We missed the path down the grassy slope in what was now fine mist, but coming steadilly down the fellside we know we eventually meet the crossing path to Far Easedale at Greenup Edge, and we did.

It is quite a long trek down Far Easedale (5.5 miles according to Wainwright) and having to come down 2,350 feet. But it was dry with some sun and we had the added amusement of the two men carrying their bikes down the valley. I think we must have been out for about 8 hours (my notebook says 6.5 hours the last time) but I'm sure the mountains have got higher and the scrambles steeper than when we were last in The Lakes seven years ago. Or is it just my age?


We were very glad to get back to a great chilli made by Chas with some lovely wine and super evening sunshine.

The following day (Tuesday) found most of us quite tired after the exertions of the previous day. After a late morning we headed for Tarn Hows via a scenic route which included the ferry across Windermere.


We were lucky to find a parking space at Tarn Hows, and after an ice cream (thanks Anne) we started with a short climb down the hill to see Tom Ghyll waterfall.


Tarn Hows is owned by the National Trust and we found the following map.



It was just right to stroll around the lake in nice, mainly sunny weather.



The dead tree trunks filled with coins were of some interest.



Alison insisted on photographing some other dead wood, so I could not avoid including one here.


I preferred the views as we came to the end of our circuit of the lake.


On our return to the cottage, we were able to sit outside for drinks and nibbles, while Anne and I had a tour of the spectacular garden with Lyn. Another beautiful evening. The only disappointment of the day came with nearly an hour wait for our food at Ash Cottage. Fortunately we had had those nibbles, and the food, when it arrived, was fine.

Anne took her husband Chas to Windermere Station very, very early as he was due in work on Wednesday. But she had the bonus of visiting Holehird Gardens, the home of the Lakeland Horticultural Society. It had been recommended by Lyn and Anne agreed it was fabulous. Definitely on my list for another year.
After she returned we took the car and parked in Elterwater and started a walk to Little Langdale. We stopped at Skelwith Bridge and took a takeout tea and sausage rolls from Chesters and sat by the river. Anne and Alison found a distraught bee that couldn't fly and found that he would take the nectar from the flowers they offered. Hopefully he recovered. Our next stop was Colwith Force.


We missed Slater Bridge as we left the path too early and crossed the river by an earlier new wooden bridge. We found the familiar Three Shires pub where Anne treated me to an ice cream.


Another dry day, mainly cloudy but mild. Anne was leaving that evening so after packing we took both cars to Ambleside for dinner. Dodds was busy so we went to the Toi Inton which is a terrific Thai restaurant and where we first visited in 2001. So glad it is still going. We said goodbye to Anne and returned to Grasmere.

Thursday was a dampish, light rain on and off most of the day. So Alison and I parked again in Elterwater and had a run down the Great Langdale valley. We started of on the high path (by mistake) by Sawrey's Wood which meant some sharp inclines. But we turned off to join the flat Cumbria Way ona  good, made up footpath. We made it as far as Dungeon Ghyll car parks and just over Rossett Bridge. The return leg was flat all the way and ended up doing 7.68 miles. It was mostly dry for the whole run. Back to the cottage and a late lunch and our first quiet afternoon in. We took turns to walk around Grasmere in the wet.

Friday was a rainy day so we headed for Ambleside quite early for some shopping and a look round. We were back to the cottage for lunch. We needed to pack as we had a very quick getaway the next morning. Another circuit of Grasmere to buy the special gingerbread, post cards etc. The rain cleared at 4pm so we had time for a decent walk from the cottage to the lake and back via White Moss.



It had turned into a really nice early evening, so after packing the car, we sat outside for drinks and nibbles and to say goodbye to Lyn who came out to see us.

We had to leave early on the Saturday to find our way to Fell Foot Park, the NT property at the bottom of lake Windermere for our 9am Parkrun. We were there in plenty of time and found there were just as many visiting Parkrunners as regulars. Fortunately it was dry and mild with odd bits of sunshine. The course is so lovely, super scenery and quite undulating. The far end of the course (which is two laps) is through a wild flower meadow. This photo is taken later with Alison at the top of this hill.


We run on the bank at the very bottom of the lake. Quite a spectacular course.


Afterwards, we had sausage and bacon rolls ( filled to bursting) and tea at the Boathouse Cafe where we sat outside.


We were in no rush and retraced the course by strolling round after changing out of our running gear. The path at the bottom of the picture is also part of the route.


We left at midday and had an uneventful drive (by Alison) home. A very nice holiday, made even nicer by spending time with Anne and Chas.

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