Last time we took a plane to Newcastle and hired a car, but this time we drove. The journey turned out to be 4hours 45minutes, almost exactly what it takes every year to Cornwall, but seemed easier with mostly light traffic. On the way we called in at the National Trust property at Cragside set in the Northumberland National Park. But it was closed on Mondays. So we arrived in Alnwick late afternoon and had a stroll around the town in the sunshine before checking in to our b&b. There are plenty of places to eat in Alnwick, and we were only five minutes walk from the centre. We found a lovely Italian called Di Sopra. Great pastas and pizzas, all for £5.95 each. Fantastic value.
We had an early breakfast on Tuesday morning as we had to get to Seahouses to catch the 9.30 Billy Shiels boat for our all day bird watch on the Farne Islands that we had booked before we left home.
We had seen one of the Springwatch programmes some time ago when they visited these islands, so we knew it was somewhere special. It was only a short journey out to a very calm North Sea (how often does that happen) when the boat came to a stop below the cliffs of the first island. Here we had our first taste of what the day would be like, with hundreds of Guillemots above us.
We circled the island for a while before another short journey to another island where we stopped to look at the seals.
The boat then made for our first landing which would be Staple Island where we had two and a half hours. The main attraction here were the thousands of puffins. There were nesting in burrows in the softer ground, and were constantly flying close overhead to collect sand eels to bring back for their invisible young.
They are the most amazing birds, but to capture them in flight a few feet above your head was almost impossible.
To see so many puffins in one place is just the most awesome experience, especially as they come so close.
There were lots of other seabirds, so many guillemots, shags and kittywakes. We could sit on a rock, have something to eat and drink and take in this amazing place. We were glad we had so long on the island. There was hardly a cloud in the sky, it was warm but fresh with a light sea breeze. It could not have been better weather.
The next island we visited was Inner Farne. We were advised to wear hats as the Arctic Terns had nests close to the path. Why they need to be so close to our only access, I do not know. But they are very protective of their young and attack anyone we passes. So everyone had at least a couple of birds on top of their heads. It is quite horrible. I'm sure that Alfred Hitchcock would have been inspired for his movie "The Birds".
There were more puffins here, some even walk across the boardwalk in front of you.
It was late in the afternoon before our boat came to take us back to the mainland. An experience like no other, and on a day of glorious sunshine. On arrival back at Seahouses, we drove a short way along the coast and found a quiet beach to have our coffee and cake.
The next day actually started cloudy ( being the reason why we booked the day before for the Farne Islands) and we stayed in Alnwick the whole day. Barter Books is one of the largest second hand bookshops in the country. It is situated in the old railway station and has over 350,000 second hand books as well as highly valuable antiquarian and rare books for sale at extravagant prices. We even found old annuals from our childhood. I came away with a couple of paperbacks, a Zadie Smith and a Beryl Bainbridge, as well as a Bernard Shaw play. Alison was thrilled with her sheet music.
After some refreshments in the Station Buffet, we headed for Alnwick Castle, home to the Duke of Northumberland's family, the Percys, for over 700 years. The exterior and grounds are also featured as Hogwarts in the early Harry Potter movies.
Inside, the state rooms are very impressive, although photography is not allowed. In the first main room I spotted a Van Dyke and four Canalettos on the walls. I had to ask the lady guide about them, and she said that this was probably the finest private art collection in the country. I mentioned that security must be tight, and apparently it was tested recently by the SAS. There were four more Canalletos we would see, as well as Titian and many others. Apparently the Duke sold a painting a few years ago for £25 Million. With two daughters recently married, I guess he needed the cash.
The guide talked to Alison and me for quite some time, explaining about the origins of the family, and it was actually quite fascinating. We had so much more information as we went through each of the rooms.
Outside we sat and had an ice cream near where the antique horse drawn carriage( used for the weddings) is situated.
The grounds of the castle are also impressive, and there were good views from the battlements.
After a short rest back in our room, we decided to revisit Di Sopra for dinner, and were glad we did.
On Wednesday, the sun returned and after another superb breakfast, we were off to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. There is a causeway across (quite an interesting drive) so you are limited to the times of the tide. It was a decent walk from the car park to the village and then up to the castle (free for us as an NT property).
The views from the top of the castle were excellent, and we watched a group of seals make their way across the inlet and out to sea.
Not a lot to see inside the castle, and we spent most of the time looking out over the surrounding landscape. We could see the ruins of The Priory which would be our next stop.
Lindisfarne Priory was quiet and serene in the sunshine. Founded in AD 635, it is now a ruin, but the tranquil setting is superb.
We saw hardly any other visitors, and we were able to wander around in peace and quiet, so different from the busy castle. We ended up at the next door Parish Church of St Mary, built over the site of an earlier Saxon church. Time was pressing and the tide was on it's way, so it was time to head off. We made for Berwick upon Tweed on the border with Scotland, but did not stay long. Instead we headed on back and called in at the wonderful Barn at Beale for tea and cake. Dinner was at Dalchinis Indian Restaurant.
Friday was our last full day, and we drove to Bamburgh Castle. What a fabulous place, overlooking a beautiful beach. We were amazed that there were so few people visiting. We parked in Bamburgh village for free and were glad we did as the walk up to the castle was worth it.
We spent over an hour in the grounds, the views are so good.
Alison was very interested in the archaeological dig that was taking place.
She timed it just right as at 11am, one of the team came out to talk about what they were doing. I took the opportunity to do some more exploring, and had a look at the cricket ground below the castle walls.
The tea room was very quiet, and we had our drinks in a peaceful café. So it mas midday before we actually went inside the castle to look at the state rooms. Again quite impressive.
Back outside we had one last look across to the sea, and Inner Farne Island where we were on the first day had become more distinct.
Leaving the castle, we walked across the dunes to the huge beach. We had great views of the Farne Islands (Inner Farne above) as we walked along the shore, paddling in the calm sea. We had the coffee we brought with us sitting where the grass of the dunes met the beach. For our last night, we did not hesitate to go to Di Sopra for our dinner.
In the morning we said our goodbyes to our hosts, Tom and Audrey. We headed into the town as we had planned on going to the famous Alnwick Garden. But we changed our minds and instead drove the short distance to Cragside. We had a lovely morning, walking round the lakes.
After tea and cake, sitting outside the café, we were ready for the journey home. It was certainly one of our best holidays ever, helped greatly by the superb weather. I'm sure we will be back. There are places we still want to see: Alnwick Garden, Howick Hall, Dunstanburgh Castle and the walk to Castor, Walkworth and Amble, Ford and Etal, and the house at Cragside that we didn't have time for. That will be easily another five days.
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