Boston, Cape Cod and New York

When Michael and Sara invited us to their wedding in New York, we decided to make it a holiday on the east coast. The plan was to fly to Boston, spend two nights there, then hire a car and drive down to Cape Cod with five nights in Hyannis. We would then drive back to Boston and catch a train to New York for our final three nights. We booked our hotels and splashed out on Virgin Premium Economy flights. Alison had actually worked over the Easter holiday and this paid for the upgrade.

So on Friday 20th May, a car picked us up from home and took us to Heathrow for an afternoon flight to Boston. We arrived there early evening and we were at our hotel in no time, no wait at immigration and a short taxi ride. Fifty minutes from leaving the plane to checking in at the Boston Omni Parker House Hotel. All in time for a stroll around the vicinity, and we were immediately impressed by what is a beautiful city.

The next day we arranged to meet Michael and Sara who were co-incidentally in town for the meeting of Michael's Boston Red Sox and Sara's Chicago Cubs, the first time these baseball teams had played each other since 1918! We headed for the harbour and it wasn't long before we met them as we were walking back down Long Wharf.

The day was sunny but chilly as we looked for somewhere to have a drink and a chat. We found a cafe and sat outside in the sun. I had a Sam Adams lager which was new to me and very acceptable. Alison and Sara visited a Christmas shop while Michael and I finished our drinks. This was all around Quincy Market where the next photo was taken.

We had originally planned on going in Boston's famous Aquarium, but the day was too nice go inside, so we plumped to explore some of the city. On Michael's advice, we headed for North End which is the Italian district. The route took us up Hanover Street, Salem Street and Hall Street. On the first of these stands Mike's Pastry, the biggest selection of cakes and deserts that Alison and I had ever seen. There were some lovely buildings in this neighbourhood and we took our time strolling around the streets. Paul Revere Mall was a highlight. We ended up at Copps Hill Terrace with views over to Bunker Hill and the USS Constitution.

We headed back along Commercial Street and around the many wharfs on Harbor Walk, from Battery Wharf to Commercial Wharf. By this time it was time for a late lunch and we were very grateful to get a table in the busy Tia's Cafe next to Christopher Columbus Park. Michael had only a t-shirt, so he had to borrow my jacket as it was decidedly cold sitting in the shade. But the lunch was very nice.

In the afternoon we strolled back along Long Wharf before deciding to walk back to our hotel via State Street and Beacon Hill and Boston Common where we took in Massachusetts State House. We said goodbye to Michael and Sara and had a rest back at the hotel. For dinner, we thought that the area around nearby Quincy Market seemed a likely place and we there we found a terrific Mexican restaurant - Zuma Tex Mex Grill. Bustly and relaxed, just what we were looking for.

On the Sunday morning we had arranged for a hire car to be delivered to the hotel. This turned out to be an expensive luxury ($713.47), but it did save a lot of time and hassle. We were driving down to Cape Cod and using it to tour the area before bringing it back on the following Friday. We wanted to stop at Plymouth on our way down, and we found the centre quite easily, parking on the seafront near the replica of the Mayflower.

Not only was it quite cloudy that day, but it was bitterly cold on the coast. We did enjoy walking around the town, but we definitely needed a hot drink. We will be eternally grateful to find the Water Street Cafe where we had a good lunch and thawed out. There were a couple of other places where might have stopped, but Sandwich did not seem to have a centre, so we carried on to Hyannis to find our hotel where we were staying for five nights. We were so pleased we had chosen the Anchor Inn. Despite being a two storey motel, it is superbly appointed, and our room was perfect. We overlooked the harbour from our balcony.

We had time for a walk around before making our way to Spankys Clam Shack next to the harbour for dinner. Another busy, noisy and unpretentious restaurant, it reminded us of Crabby Bills in St Petes Beach. Really good seafood, we had swordfish and shrimp dishes.

The breakfasts at the hotel were excellent. They were buffet style with a great selection. On Monday morning, Alison had an early run, the weather was slightly less cold, but still chill and cloudy. We walked down Main Street in Hyannis where there is plenty to see, shops, churches, schools, banks etc. We were actually looking for a beanie hat for me as if we went out on a boat, I would need something. Nothing in Hyannis, so we drove to Cape Cod Mall on the highway outside the town. Nothing there, but at least we were warm inside, and we had the best panini ever at the Casual Gourmet Express at the  food court.

It was mid afternoon, and we bravely returned to Hyannis to catch the 4.15pm Harbor Cruise. It is just a one hour trip around the bay and takes in views of Hyannisport and the Kennedy homes. The Prudence is a 1911 coastal steamer and we did not have a lot of company. It didn't seem too cold after all, but we did take advantage of the cabin on the way back.

We had seen an Olive Garden restaurant on the highway, and had always liked the food when we eat there during our holidays in Orlando. So we had dinner there, lots of lovely pasta.

We started out tour of the cape in earnest on Tuesday, driving down to Falmouth. A very pretty coastal town with a pretty main street. We found it was a long walk to the harbour, lots of boats but the dockside was mostly inaccessible. The walk back through some smart holiday homes was interesting. A welcome coffee stop before driving to Woods Hole. There is no parking at this harbour for the ferry to Martha's Vineyard, and as it was pretty misty we only stooped for 15 minutes.

We had a nice drive to Chatham. It was getting a little brighter as we parked up and had a stroll around the town. We found we could drive to the seafront and park overlooking a beach and sand dunes. What we had not expected was to have pointed out a colony of perhaps 300 or so seals resting on the sandbank in the near distance. This is actually a 12 mile long permanent sandbank called Nauset Beach which is just offshore on the east coast of the cape. Fortunately Alison had brought the binoculars and we could see them moving around.

We had time for a walk on the beach before driving a short distance and finding a wonderful little harbour called Chatham Fish Pier. Fairly deserted in the late afternoon, but the sun was appearing at last and it was quite something. Fishing and coastguard boats to inspect, a walk along the beach to a wooden pier, Chatham was a real highlight of the holiday.

Back to Hyannis and dinner at The Black Cat where I had superbly fresh fried fish and chips. This is a great place to eat. The day had been a lot less cold, and getting brighter all the time.

We had planned Wednesday for our trip to the very end of the cape and Provincetown. In the morning we were greeted with lovely sunshine and blue skies. The drive down was pleasant enough and we parked for free at the museum, only a very short walk from the centre. Provincetown is a quaint, old harbour town, great to walk around in the sun.

We found a cafe on the main square and sat outside. As soon as we arrived we booked for the 3 hour plus whale watching cruise and this was due to leave at 12.30. The cafe warmed up a panini and wrapped it in foil for our lunch on the boat. Whale watching was something Alison had been looking forward to ever since we thought about going to Cape Cod, and it was on the advice of the hotel that we picked Provincetown as it was nearer to Stellwagen Bank where the whales hang out. It was a large boat that took us out, and being such a beautiful day, it was fairly crowded, but OK.

We must have been going over an hour when we saw our first whales, two Finbacks which are apparently the second largest of all animals on earth. These two were pretty big. We got quite close and for me, the best bit was when they arched their backs as they dived deep and disappeared for a while. The boat kept still as we waited for them to reappear, which luckily they did. After a while the boat started off again, and although time was getting on, we did eventually find a pair of Humpback Whales. Alison had taken over the camera and took lots of photos. Her favourite part was when the whales were blowing and caught this picture.

We were passed the allotted time and the boat headed back and we arrived at the harbour at 4pm. A wonderful experience. Just time to look around the shops, but I missed going up the tower of the monument as it was just closing. We drove back to Hyannis after a great day, and went back to the Olive Garden for dinner.

Thursday started bright and warm. Having found out how to park and ride for the ferry to Martha's Vineyard, we drove to Falmouth and picked up the coach to take us to Woods Hole. Here we bought our tickets and had time for a stroll around the small town. The ferry to the Vineyard was 45 minutes and we relaxed on deck. We were very impressed with Oak Bluffs, a very pretty main street and harbour. We bought coffee and cake to go from the Gourmet Cafe and Bakery and sat on a bench in a small square.

Walking further up the main street we looked through a gap and saw what we knew were some of the gingerbread cottages we had heard about. It was extraordinary, there was nobody about and here we were walking around this whole area of brightly painted timber cottages. There were so many to see and we took lots of photographs.

We found they went all down to the sea front and then wound back towards the centre. We came across the Tabernacle of Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting Association. One of the cottages had turned into a museum and gift shop. It was deserted and the lady behind the counter was a mine of information, having spent the summers of her childhood in one of the homes. She explained how Methodists started to gather at Oak Bluffs over the summer and in 1835 set up tents on Trinity Park. Over time families turned these into more permanent structures as summer homes and a whole community was born. There are still over 300 cottages standing today. Quite amazing.

We finished up at the harbour where we (yes, it was me) decided to walk to Vineyard Haven, where we could catch a ferry back, only a couple of miles on the map. Our (my) one mistake of the holiday. it was a heavy tramp along roads and took an hour. We should definitely have caught the bus. The ferry left at 5pm, and there was not much to see at Vineyard Haven, so we had a rest on the boat. However, it was overall a splendid day, bright, occasional sun and warm. Back to The Black Cat for a terrific dinner.

On Friday morning we had time for a little shopping on Hyannis Main Street ( a t-shirt for me and cap for Alison from Wings) posted some cards at the Post Office, and left at 9.40 to drive back to Boston. Somehow we missed the turn for the airport, but found our way back onto the highway and then the airport complex, found a petrol station, filled the car with petrol (avoiding the $80 surcharge by the hire company). Had to wait in a queue to complete the paperwork at Dollar before they gave us a lift to the airport terminal. Here we caught the Silverline bus transfer (it has it's own dedicated tunnel to South Station) to catch the Amtrak train to New York. It left on time at 1.40pm, but what should have been 4 hour 20 minute journey became nearly six hours due to persistent engine breakdowns along the way. However, we did get to see many coastal towns along the way: Providence, New Haven, Bridgeport and New London. There were just so many boats. All the harbours were teeming with them. We arrived at Penn Station in New York at 7.15pm and took a taxi to the hotel in Brooklyn. Alison was amazed at how fast taxis drive in the city, I think we reached 75mph down Broadway. We had time to check in and unpack at the Marriott at the Brooklyn Bridge before going out to search for a late dinner. We found the Mexacali down Court Street. It had been good weather for our journey and the evening was warm in New York.

Saturday started off sunny, and we found a Starbucks nearby for breakfast. We took the subway to Times Square, where we joined the throngs wandering around.

We then headed up 6th Avenue and ended up at the Rockefeller Center. Alison had maintained that

she didn't want to go to the top of a high building, but once there, she changed her mind, and we bought our tickets for Top of the Rock. Going up in the fast lift is always a great experience, 67 floors in a flash, and a light show in the lift shaft thrown in. We both loved the views from the top and spent some time taking in the sights.

The most amazing thing happened up there. We actually met my daughter, her husband and daughter. Quite incredible, totally unplanned as we had not expected to have gone to the top. We had a great time chatting and taking photos. They were on their way out, but we stayed another half hour before meeting them for lunch at the bottom.

We said goodbye after lunch and walked back down 5th Avenue and 42nd Street. It was here we passed an ASICS shop (all running kit) and I encouraged Alison to have a look round. We found an ASICS NY running top for her, how cool is that?

We took the subway back to the hotel, it had been a very warm and sunny day, about 28C. Just time to freshen up and change before meeting Michael and Sara and her parents. We all took the subway to Michael and Sara's apartment in Brooklyn for a tour and quick drink before going out to dinner at a quaint restaurant nearby. The food was fabulous, wonderful Red Snapper. I had never had Octopus before and I have to say that it was very nice.  Michael and Sara were going on to meet friends at the bar in Manhattan where they met, and we were also invited. Another subway ride, and it was good to meet some of those over for the wedding. We didn't stay that long, getting back to the Marriot about 11.30.

Sunday was sunny again and even warmer. After breakfast we walked through Brooklyn Heights to the Esplanade with great views over the river to Manhattan's financial district, the Brooklyn Bridge and the Statue of Liberty in the distance.

We walked to Clark Street and took the short subway ride to Wall Street. There were lots of tourists around, but the place looked great in the sunshine.

We strolled down Broadway towards City Hall and the Woolworth Building and had a rest in the park. Here we took the subway to Union Square where we had lunch at yet another Starbucks. We then had to go on a search to find Paragon Sporting Goods. When Alison saw the women's running section she was in heaven. Rails after rail of running kit. Three tops, a hat and a pair of running shoes for her and a shirt for me.

The square itself was very busy, a Chinese Market and a rapper, but we didn't stay long. It was a hot day, about 32C. We had time for a rest before getting changed for the wedding. That will be another posting.

We had most of Sunday to ourselves as our return flight was not until the evening. We checked out and left our baggage at the hotel. We had a superb room, and it was so quiet. We slept really well. Back on the subway from Borough Hall. The advice on the Internet about the Metrocard did not explain how easy they were to top up, and we had hardly anything left after the last journey. We arrived in Central Park to hot sunshine. We had all morning to stroll around, keeping mainly in the shade.

We actually ended up at the reservoir, so I guess we must have seen nearly all of the southern half of the park. Alison wanted to do some shopping, and the hotel had suggested the mall at Atlantic Terminal. It was fairly close to the hotel where we had to pick up our luggage, so that was our final destination. We found an Applebees for a late lunch and a Bath and Bodyworks for some things to take home. But they nearly made one of the suitcases over the weight limit, 22 out of 23kg.

We left the hotel by car at 4.30pm and avoided the lengthy queus at the Virgin check-in as we were straight through on our Premium Economy ticket. A six hour flight home made for an earlier than expected arrival at Heathrow. I watched a movie on the plane. "The American" had reasonable reviews, but I was not dissapointed to have missed it at the cinema. The same can be said for "Animal Kingdom" on the way out.

There are so may memories of what was an amazing adventure over the eleven days in America. Everything was perfect. OK, the weather started off cold on Cape Cod, but we didn't have any rain during the day, and after a couple of days on the cape, we saw a lot of sun. The three hotels were excellent. Boston's was a little noisy, but what a superb position. Our room overlooked Old City Hall and King's Chapel. The Anchor Inn in Hyannis was special. Right next to the quiet part of the harbour. No tea making facilities in the rooms, but in the nearby lounge a machine made tea or coffee on demand any time of day or night. We could make a decaff coffee when we got back from dinner. The Marriott at the Brooklyn Bridge was very smart, a high room was very quiet with nobody next door.

Alison loved Boston, and I have to say it was a very nice city. We would definitely go back, if only to buy up Mike's Pastry. Cape Cod was great, not at all busy just before the tourist season started in earnest. And we saw everything we had planned, except possibly some beaches on the east coast. There is nowhere like New York. Alison and Zoe were not particularly looking forward to visiting the city, but they were knocked out as usual. The subway was great, and we used it so much. I enjoyed working out the routes and even found the right C line on the last day back to Fulton Street for Atlantic Terminal.

But we were there for a wedding and that comes next.