Holiday in Scotland

It had not been long since we arrived back from our break in Rome and we were off again. This time to Scotland. We planned on a touring holiday with two nights in Glasgow, two nights on the Isle of Skye and two nights in Inveraray.

We were up very early on the Saturday morning having packed the night before. I had used Butlers to take me to Luton Airport when I went to New York, and the service was just as good. But the same cannot be said for Budget Car Rental. The plane arrived on time with ten minutes from landing to pick up our cases. It was going too well. We had to wait in a queue for an hour and a half to pick up our car, and even then it wasn't ready. Fortunately it was newish Peugeot 308 that was perfect.

A short journey to Glasgow, we parked up, had a coffee and set out on a walking tour of the city. It has to be said that we were very disappointed. The walk along the River Clyde and into Glasgow Green was very ordinary.

Things did perk up as we found the Merchant City quarter and we wandered about the quiet streets in the sunshine. It was time to find our hotel, Alison had booked a Marriott on the strength of working over Easter, and it was superb with our 9th floor room had great views and was very quiet despite overlooking the motorway. We took the car into the centre to try to find somewhere to eat on a busy Saturday night. Negotiating the one way system was fairly chaotic and we ended up parking too far away. So we did have to walk down Sauchiehall Street and pass the Concert Hall. All the restaurants in the Merchant Square were full, but we did find a table outside one in the Italian Quarter. It was great to eat our pasta outside on a warm June evening.

When we first talked about a holiday in Scotland, I mentioned that The Falkirk Wheel was somewhere I had always wanted to visit. Alison was very good to indulge my strange choice, but it gave her the chance of a run along the canal. While she ran by 11 locks to the Coran Sea Lock on the Firth of Forth and back, I went on my boat ride. The £20 Million Falkirk Wheel is the world's first rotating boatlift and opened in 2002. Originally, the Forth and Clyde Canal from Grangemouth to Glasgow was linked to the Union Canal to Edinburgh by 11 locks over a height of 34 meters and boats took nearly a day to make the connection. The whole canal system fell into disrepair and many of the locks disappeared. As part of the Millennium Link Project to restore the canals, The Falkirk Wheel was planned 3km away from the original locks and required a brand new piece of canal to be built.

Designed by RMJM ( the same architects that were responsible for the apartments contract at Discovery Dock) it lived up to all my expectations. And the hour's boat ride is definitely worth it. Meeting up with Alison, we stopped for coffee at a table right next to the wheel and were rewarded with watching a boat make it's way into place right next to us and then lifted to the top. Outstanding.

We had time to have a short afternoon walk and found our way to Carron Forest Park and a stroll by the reservoir in the sunshine. We had been very lucky with the weather.

On Sunday evening Merchant Square was deserted. so we had out pick of restaurants, plumping for a fajitas with our own widescreen TV showing a Brazil game.

On Monday morning we were off to Skye. If I had worked it out beforehand that it would take 3 hours 50 minutes to the ferry, I might have wondered what we were doing. But the scenery on the journey was just fantastic, all the way from Loch Lomond, less than an hour out of Glasgow. We went through Glen Coe and Fort William before heading down "The Road to the Isles". At the end is Mallaig, a pleasant ferry and fishing village. The ferry due out 20 minutes after we arrived was full, so we were booked on the next at 3.10pm. It meant we had time for a spot of lunch and a stroll around the harbour, and we were glad we did.

The ferry journey was very enjoyable in the afternoon sunshine. We had good views of the islands of Eigg and Rhum. Half an hour and we were approaching Armadale on Skye.

It was another hour or so to drive to our base in Portree so we headed for Peinmore House which turned out to be the best Bed and Breakfast establishment you could hope to find. Don and Margaret Greer moved here from Norfolk, and have invested quite some time and money in refurbishing the house to a very high standard. Only five rooms, and ours was a spacious and beautifully appointed suite at the top. Just gorgeous.

We took the car into the centre of Portree to find somewhere for dinner. The Royal Hotel had a basic but large cafe, and was where Bonnie Prince Charlie was supposed to have said goodbye to Flora McDonald. We had not thought much of the town until we made our way down to the harbour. This was really excellent in the evening sun, how many times could you say that in Scotland.

Tuesday was our only full day on Skye, so we wanted to do a coastal walk. We were so lucky that the day started fine and we decided on the Gleshornish peninsula in the north. A level but indistinct path alongside the Loch gave us great views of the mountains beyond. At Gleshornish Point there were wonderful views from the headland. Clifftops on the other side of the Loch were a sight. It was hard going to get around the hilly headland with little sign of a main path. We were cutting across steep heathland before we again reached the Loch side.

Just as we were on the last stretch back to the car, we felt some light rain. We had again been lucky with mainly sunshine while we were out. We had already decided to go back to Peinmore House for a rest and some refreshment. Seeing France eliminated from the World Cup was a bonus. The rain had set in when we went out for dinner but The Prince of India (strange to have a good Indian restaurant on Skye) was not far and we had a good meal.

The following day was our journey to Inveraray, but we decided to spend some time on Skye first. A Forestry Commission otter sanctuary at Kylerhea was only a slight detour on the way to the Skye Bridge, and this was our first destination. Little did we know that after leaving the main road, the six miles of single track road turned into a white knuckle ride. Precarious twists, turns and humps meant that Alison was glad when I offered to take over the driving.

We found the small car park and walked down a track to a hide overlooking the loch. There were a few people there, and we took advantage of the binoculars that were provided. No otters, but great views of seals and cormorants.

Not keen on the prospect of returning down the road we came on, we decided to look for the ferry not far from the hide. We had no idea if this was just a passenger ferry or how often it ran. There were two cars waiting when we arrived and the ferry was just arriving.

The Kylerhea to Glenelg ferry is a hidden gem, situated as it is between six miles of single track road on either side. But it is the shortest distance between Skye and the mainland, a short ten minute crossing. I think that this was Alison's favourite part of the holiday. A quiet beautiful location, a dinky ferry taking just three cars and a dog, and seals swimming nearby. And to think we were originally planning to return to the main road and cross the bridge.

The road on the other side was much nicer, mainly single track but level and straight. And we saved time by what turned out to be a short cut. There was one climb before we met the main road again, but it was worth it for the views of the Five Sisters on the other side of the A87.

Another long drive, stopping at Glen Coe visitor centre for coffee and a snack and avoiding the England game. We reached Inverary and the Loch Fynne Hotel in the late afternoon and came across the biggest disappointment of the holiday. Alison had booked a junior suite overlooking Loch Fyne. But the room was awful, so old fashioned, noisy and too warm. We went to have something to eat in the town and decided to ask to change the room. We were taken to new and modern wing with a very quiet standard room overlooking a garden. Made even more perfect with a good discount. I had the best sleep of the holiday.

We stayed in Inverarary on our honeymoon twenty years ago but not at the same hotel. Then we stayed at what is now The Argyl Hotel, and it hasn't changed a bit.

The next morning started off bright so we set off for Oban. We had no real expectation of anything special as when we visited there on our honeymoon, it had seemed quite miserable, although it was a damp day as I recall. How different it seemed when we arrived. A pretty, bustling little port with nice shops and cafes along the front and a lovely harbour.

Last time it was too wet to go out on a boat, but this time we did. Just an hour's trip out to sea to see some seals and the Islands of Kerrera and Mull. And watch one of the big ferry's arrive. Only eight passengers and our captain come guide. Complete with hand drawn pencil sketches of nearby scenes. Quite cool out on the boat, but well worth it.

We had coffee and cake in a lovely cafe, walked around the shops and the harbour before heading back. We wanted to stop to look at an old castle we saw on the way there. Inishail lies on an island in Loch Awe. There is parking on the main road, so we walked across the fields for a good view of the remains which urned out to be those of a convent and chapel.

Back in Inveraray, we decided on eating out at The Argyl Hotel and see if we remembered the interior. No luck, but we had a nice meal. The evening was very pleasant and we wandered around the front with good views of the harbour and the bridge.

On our way back to the car, we heard bagpipes in the distance. We found the Inveraray Youth Pipe Band on their practice night outside. They had won competitions in the past, and it sounded like it. They were very good.

We had a late afternoon flight on Friday, but we had all morning free. So we headed for Loch Lomond and parked at Banoch. Just in time for an hour's boat trip down the loch on the Silver Marlin.

We still had time to drive to Banoch Castle and Country Park where we had coffee and a snack from "The Slipway" cafe, sitting on a bench next to Loch Lomond. A stroll around the grounds and it was time to head for the airport.

TOP MARKS go to:

The Glenelg - Skye Ferry

Seal spotting at the hide and ferry at Kylerhea

Peinmore House - a superior B&B

The Falkirk Wheel

Sitting outside for dinner in the middle of Glasgow on a warm Saturday evening

Skye scenery

Portree harbour

The Mallaig to Armadale Ferry

Oban and the boat trip

Inveraray

Driving through Glen Coe whilst missing the England game

Alan Plater 1935 - 2010

Before we went on holiday to Scotland, we watched an amusing episode of Lewis. I had to know who wrote the script and was amazed to see that the person responsible was Alan Plater. I can remember Mum was always a big fan of his plays and I was almost sure he started with Z Cars for the BBC and some investigation proved this to be correct. This was a whole new dimension in television, the first character based police series starring amongst others, Stratford Johns. He wrote 18 episodes for Z Cars and 30 for it's successor Softly Softly.

He wrote many other great television dramas including the memorable The Beiderbeck Affair, and in more recent times a number of episodes for Dalziel and Pascoe and another four for Lewis. I was already planning to write this posting when we learned that he died last week. With a bit of luck the BBC will show some of his early work. I'm sure it will have stood the test of time.

Tring Book Club - The Black Dahlia and Brooklyn

The Black Dahlia by James Elroy

I hardly ever read crime fiction, so this choice for the book club would find me in different territory again. This was quite a difficult book to read, written as it was in the street dialogue of late 1940's LA. So 380 pages seemed to take forever. It was OK as a one off, but has not stirred to read more of this genre.

So the language was really strange: " grabbed a pair of radio car bulls who code three'd the booty over". You have to think to work it out. Written in the first person, it reminded me of the Philip Marlowe radio series from the 70's, and I found myself reading with his American accent.

All the characters were pretty obnoxious, apart from the wonderful old girl Jane Chambers. The fact that she liked our narrator Dwight Bleichert was his main saving grace. There were parts that were memorable - the boxing match which Dwight should have won, but lost - the interviews he conducts on the trail of the Black Dahlia's murderer - and his visit to Ensenada where he uncovers some nasty truths. The most disappointing part was the ending, it lets down the whole story.

Brooklyn by Colm Toibin

I thought the beginning was a little lightweight, but then after 60 pages or so we are treated to one of the most brilliant passages I have read for a long, long time. Our heroine has settled in New York, but cannot understand the emptiness and pain she feels. Father Flood has to explain to her what homesickness is, and the writing here is top class. The emotional tug of the people who help her through this period is wonderful.

From then on I just loved this book. The characters in the house where she lives become more interesting, and her maturing self confidence at work and in her personal life is well drawn. The final section is about the dilemma she faces when tragedy at home makes the choice that will determine her future all the more difficult. I loved this novel, and so did the ladies in my book club. I will definitely look to see what else the author has written.

131 Songs - Numbers 37, 38 and 39

Number 37 - Freebird by Lynrd Skynrd

A reminder of all those car journeys home from site or the office. Johnnie Walker's Radio 2 show was quite something, especially in it's early days. That was when he played the whole of the live version of Freebird, all thirteen minutes and eleven seconds, on a prime time flagship station, it made queueing in traffic a pleasure. The song would never make it to my favourites list, but Johnny Walker would.

Number 38 - Scenes From An Italian Restaurant by Billy Joel

I used to like a bit of Billy Joel, but never owned a recording. Radio 2 used to play It's Still Rock and Roll To Me which I liked, and some others. But Alison is a huge fan and I was introduced to all his LP's and became startled by how many great songs they contained. And this track in particular. We went to see Billy Joel at Wembley Arena in the late eighties and he put on a great show.

Number 39 - There She Goes by The La's

Another favourite from Radio 2, although it is probably never played there now. Lady Gaga et al is their new staple diet. Written by the band's front man Lee Mavers, it appeared as a single in 1988, when it flopped, and again in 1990 with more success following The La's only album. This Liverpool band was really a one hit wonder, but it is still good enough to make my collection.

Bad Lieutenant, Robin Hood and 4.3.2.1

I was prepared for Bad Lieutenant to be a strange film as Werner Herzog had moved into mainstream territory. The first half was fine, but Nicholas Cage's descent into drug fuelled madness was accompanied by some weird hallucinations. But overall, this was a fine movie. A predictable story, but lots of good dialogue, and an amazing performance by the lead actor, with his cop living on the edge of disaster. Good support from Eva Mendes and, amazingly, Val Kilmer. What was he doing in a Werner Herzog film? Great fun.

Which is more than can be said of Robin Hood. Is it just me, or is this truly an awful movie? Where to start. I nearly walked out after an opening twenty minutes that was an embarrassment. There is a reasonable "re imagined " story line but the dialogue is some of the most hammy I have ever heard. The set piece action scenes are boring and in between only Cate Blanchett comes out with any credit. And oh yes, Mark Addy. A journeyman British TV actor steals the film with his performance as Friar Tuck. Easily the best thing about the movie. If only Russell Crowe had been watching, then his moody take on the lead role might have meant we could have warmed a little to his character. Instead he is completely unlovable. Nothing like the Robin Hood we know and love. He is too old for one thing and seemed uninterested for another. Perhaps all the blame should be the director's. Easily the worst movie Ridley Scott had the misfortune to choose.

Just as I was starting to think about the next film, I had a little chuckle. Because it is so far different from the last. Noel Clarke is trying his best to bring zip to the British thriller. But perhaps this movie is just too frenetic and trashy. He sometimes tries to emulate Tarantino with some hip dialogue and set pieces, but struggles to convince. The razor sharp editing is just too much, and the characters pretty vacant for all their street cred. So we are left with more cultured cameos from Ben Miller, Helen McCrory and Kevin Smith. But I did find it entertaining in a funny sort of way. The soundtrack is definitely cool, but not really my taste. And Noel Clarke is trying to make sort of intelligent, exciting movies for the younger generation and is definitely on the up. Go Noel.

131 Songs - Number 36

Number 36 - Romeo and Juliet by Dire Straits

It was another difficult choice. Sultans of Swing reminds me of early Terry Wogan breakfast radio. If I only had one song to take to a desert island it would be Telegraph Road. But Romeo and Juliet on the Dire Straits live album is how I came to be a big Mark Knopfler fan, thanks to Alison and her copy of Alchemy. We went to see Dire Straits at Woburn and it was brilliant. But oh to have been at Hammersmith in those early days of the band. Thank goodness it was recorded for posterity.

Mark Knopfler at The Albert Hall

I booked early for yet another Mark Knopfler concert, his bi-annual residency at his local arena. I had one of the best seats in the house, second row of the stalls, just far enough round to see all the band face on. He does put on a great show, though it has to be said, not quite in the same class as previous concerts. Possibly because of the set list, or the slow beginning where great songs (Border Riever, Sailing to Philadelphia, What It Is, Mason Dixon Line) were spun out with instrumentals. Only 17 songs in over two hours?

But things improved with excellent renditions of Romeo and Juliet and Sultans of Swing. The middle section was sublime. His wonderful seven piece band took up their acoustic instruments (double bass, ukulele, mandolin, accordion, violin and pipes) and we were transported to an Irish pub for some brilliant Celtic numbers including Hill Farmer's Blues. The main set ended with a fabulous Telegraph Road.

Their break was a few beers on stage, and then we were off for the encore with So Far Away and Brothers in Arms, finishing with an awesome Piper to the End. We all went home happy in the end.